Fashion Brief
London Collections: Menswear begins tomorrow. Here’s a 10-point blaggers’ guide with all you need to know. You’re welcome.
1) Tailoring will be big
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Helen Seamons
Dunhill and Hardy Amies will be presenting catwalk shows for the first time. Both brands with terribly proper English heritage – Amies designed for the Queen, no less . Expect an updated spin on the traditional whistle and flute.
2) The Man Frow marches on
Photograph: Karwai Tang/WireImage
With Nick Grimshaw now ambassador to LC:M, he’s brought his mates with him. Expect models Jack Guinness and Oliver Cheshire as Frow (front row) regulars. The Burberry show on Monday is always the starriest.
3) Craig Green is the buzz show
Photograph: Alex Bramall/ Alex Bramall
The British designer won Emerging Menswear Designer at 2014’s British Fashion Awards and his last show – all flowing cotton and bare feet – brought tears to the eyes of the audience. This season is much-anticipated – the one to watch goes next-level.
4) John Galliano is back (with womenswear)
Photograph: Richard Young/REX/Richard Young/REX
The controversial designer is showing his first collection for Maison Martin Margiela during LC:M. A couture collection that would usually be shown in Paris later in the month, it has caused much debate . Is Galliano making a statement by moving his show to London? Is it an attention thing? Will there be men’s clothes? Only time will tell.
5) Streetwear is having a moment
Photograph: Maharishi
See the catwalk turn of Maharishi – the combat-trouser brand whose founder, Hardy Blechman, is famous for drinking his own urine. Founded 20 years ago, this brand is in a perfect position to take advantage of the 90s revival. Expect combats to become part of your 2015 wardrobe.
6) From popcorn to beer, fashion snacks will be consumed
Photograph: Alamy
According to the British Fashion Council, 2,500 bags of popcorn will be eaten over the four-day event, washed down with around 5,000 bottles of water. If that’s all a bit virtuous, it also predicts more than 6,000 beers will be drunk. Nice to know not everyone is having a dry January.
7) LC:M is a hotbed of new talent
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Helen Seamons
Both Fashion East and MAN provide showcases for younger designers out to change men’s wardrobes. New names to know include young Irish designer Rory Parnell-Mooney, who will bring a sort of sculptural minimalism to the MAN catwalk, and Graces Wales Bonner’s retro stylings, which will be at Fashion East.
8) Street style is about the details
Photograph: Everett Collection/REX/Everett Collection/REX
If street style at the womenswear shows are all about full looks, men’s tend to focus on the details – anything from pocket squares and watches to the ever-present mankle. While we’re yet to find out the item in focus this time, street style’s influence is undimmed. Harvey Nichols will host a hot-ticket dinner for photographer Tommy Ton this week.
9) Nasir Mazhar’s scene is something to behold
Photograph: PR company handout
The London milliner blipped on the global radar in December when he designed pieces for models in the Victoria Secret’s show. His show at LC:M will no doubt now have more buzz about it – a good thing. Since the mid-noughties, Mazhar has patiently built an aesthetic of modern, edgy streetwear with a pinch of cartoon camp about it (see pink tracksuits). His time is now.
10) This isn’t just for fashion types
Photograph: Anthony Upton/PA
Real, normal people are contributing to the success of LCM – by buying clothes. The menswear market has grown 5% in the last year, and is set to grow 27% between 2013 to 2018, to reach £16.4 billion.
