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Cutting edge: a 80s hair salon that styled a destiny of fashion

Before London became a atomised, hyper-capitalist general transformation depot it is today, it was a collateral of Britain. The heartless globalisation of a city creates Sarah Lewis’s initial feature, No Ifs Or Buts – premiering during a London film festival in Nov – an essential chronological request that charts, over dual decades, a substantially final impulse when British enlightenment dominated a city.

Told by a story of Cuts, a Soho hair salon launched in a 80s that became a seminal change on UK conform and song – portion a customers that stretched from Boy George to Goldie – a film depicts in microcosm a brief multiplying of British sexuality, creativity and multiculturalism that occurred in London before it was globalised to a margins.

The Australian film-maker brings a pointy outsider’s eye to a quirks of her subjects and their universe as she spent 19 years following a shop, started by a late James Lebon, a hair stylist and indication who surfed a post-punk, new regretful call of inspiration. His concise attract lured celebrities, artists and pleasing people to a business, that was turbo-charged when Steve Brooks became a partner. Together they plugged into a grid of Britain’s girl enlightenment and advertising: a chaotic, drug-fuelled arise that would explain a engorgement of victims – and their relationship.

“I grew adult in 70s Australia,” Lewis tells me, when we ask her what so intrigued her about Brooks and Lebon. “It was a really misogynist sourroundings in that women seemed to demonstrate themselves by ancillary roles. we didn’t wish that for my life and was preoccupied by that masculine energy, how these dual group done so most happen.”

An satirical investigate of masculinity, a film contrasts dual really opposite characters. Lebon is tall, straight, appealing and has an tractable manner, that he uses to pull women and to easily justice a happy worlds of character and fashion. Brooks is most shorter, irascible and painfully uncertain about his homosexuality and appeal, constantly seeking people either they find him attractive.

The adore between them is touching: a true masculine usurpation of his best friend’s gayness, some-more so than his crony himself. Lebon was a passionate groundbreaker, pulling for happy equivalence and also a enrichment of heterosexuals in hairdressing. “I feel really strongly about that,” he tells Paula Yates in a TV interview. At one point, he employs a immature black, clearly happy beautician partly since he thinks he will assistance Brooks out of a closet.



Horsing around … from a documentary No Ifs or Buts. Photograph: Mark Lebon

Cuts non-stop a doors to black talent, and a allowance of London travel enlightenment helped pierce it to a blurb mainstream – a pierce steeped in a secular energetic of black kids formulating a styles, moves and beats, while older, market-savvy white people get paid for it.

I reflected on a epoch with a author David Matthews, who told me: “The black masculine was a white man’s plaything, in his clubs, his bedroom and a cells of his military stations. The miss of farrago was distinguished … we had no clarity of being in any movement. People were too bustling feasting on any other to have any genuine clarity of solidarity.”

No Ifs Or Buts flags adult Britain’s ever-confused politics. There is a lot of angry about Thatcherism, with Cuts regarded as a riotous transformation opposite capitalism and intolerance, and a vulgar absentmindedness about how even some-more extremist and homophobic a nation was before Maggie.

Lebon and Brooks would eventually turn estranged, their attribute broken by drugs and dysfunction. A deeply buried childhood mishap suffered by Brooks was a force that both propelled Cuts and led him to a breakdown.



Ephemera from No Ifs or Buts, Sarah Lewis’ documentary about a Soho barbershop Cuts. Photograph: Mark Lebon

“I’m really supportive to masculine fragility,” Lewis tells me. “In Australia, we was really wakeful of group behaving out and a deeper romantic drives of that obsession and bad poise are only symptoms.” This attraction has constructed a clear window on to how feeble group cope with psychological pain, channelling their agonise into aspiration and constraint rather than estimate it.

Filming began in 1996 as a year-in-the-life project, one that stretched to roughly 20. “It was an radical film-making process,” Lewis says, “which mirrored a freewheeling appetite of Cuts. Dealing with all those opposite personalities, life stories and relocating behind and onward to Australia done it formidable during times, though that’s a messiness of life”

The salonbecame a breakwater for all sorts of waifs and strays, providing an opening for self-expression as they struggled with their demons. It’s unsettling how many people compared with a emporium fell into obsession and have died.

Lewis’s film is an intriguing demeanour during a dance between repairs and creativity in a really British context, capturing a insanity and naivety of that duration when Thatcherism segued into a Cool Britannia of a Blair years. (Cuts gave Fran Healy of Travis his signature sub-mohican “fin”.) It was a time when a British leapt excitedly from their post-imperial deathbed in a mistaken faith that they’d again make themselves of effect in a universe by a multiple of innovative cocktail enlightenment and carrying sex with black people.

It’s a wise irony that an newcomer has expel her lens on this duration before a tsunami of tellurian collateral and talent crashed into London, soaking a prior inhabitants and approach of life to a sidelines. The chronological value of Lewis’s film should not be overlooked.

Article source: https://www.theguardian.com/film/2018/oct/09/cutting-edge-the-80s-hair-salon-that-styled-the-future-of-fashion-no-ifs-or-buts-documentary

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