Biscuit beige (pictured top)
There is a danger in over-contextualising fashion. Short skirts? Must be the economy. Pink? Yep, seventh-wave feminism. That said, it is calming wrapping yourself in a bland colour when the country is in political turmoil, and beige was seen at the expected (Burberry, Max Mara) and unexpected (Tibi, Kenzo) shows this season. It works best worn tonally; halfway between the palette at Tom Ford, which was very Bath Oliver biscuit, and Calvin Klein, as worn head-to-toe by Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.
What to buy on the high street Oversized trench, Zara
Trouser suit 3.0
The suit spectrum is a broad one. For some, it screams work. For others, it’s a welcome alternative to a dress. Princess Diana started wearing them to events post-divorce as a sign of liberation (let’s call it now-who-wears-the-trousers signalling), while Gabriela Hearst’s pantsuits have redefined the democratic dress code (Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez is a fan). Diana’s navy is fine if you have three events a week, otherwise go matching and bold, à la Cluedo’s Colonel Mustard.
The mood of the season, at least with partywear, is that more is not enough, so pop on some more. At least that was the case on dress hems at Richard Quinn, sleeves at Valentino, and bags at Loewe. Choose a coat or dress with an excessive trim (see the late Lee Radziwill wafting around New York) and aim for an absurdly froufrou silhouette. Think Stoppit from Stoppit And TidyUp and you’re halfway there. The cartoonishly yellow feather trimmed coat at Rochas made us smile, and that’s the goal.
What to buy on the high street Satin wrap fringe skirt, Other Stories
Boiler suits – the grittier, workhorse cousins to the jumpsuit – are back again, although frankly when are they not? This season’s are navy though, so closer to overalls, and longline, which is more flattering. At Dries van Noten, Alexa Chung and Isabel Marant they were best with a Cuban heel, and at Louis Vuitton came cinched with a belt. Imagine the Fonz at work, or a 1950s greaser on a bike, and work backwards from there. Morph reference is mostly about the silhouette
What to buy on the high street Washed cotton boilersuit, Arket
Few things elevate a gown on the red carpet like an enormous bow. Hedi Slimane opened his first Celine show with a polka dot version, while models at Moschino wore theirs like baby carriers. Bow-shaped backpacks were popular at Miu Miu, but the winner was a taffeta one worn as a necklace at Marc Jacobs. Size matters here, as the petulant Scarlett O’Hara knew, but so does placement: up high, as on those maltese dogs at Crufts.
What to buy on the high street Bow-fronted dress, Asos
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